We parked our bikes for a few days, jumped on a Shinkansen train and went on a retreat in Suzaka, near Nagano. It came at just the right time – halfway through our journey through Japan. Stepping out of our routines gave us space to reflect, clear our minds, and relax our muscles.

Franzi found the retreat online – pretty random, really – but it turned out to be exactly what we needed. A spiritual match!

The retreat centre is run by Dorothee, an ordained Zen priest in the Rinzai tradition, who came to Japan from Germany over 40 years ago. We spent three days in her extraordinary dojo, called Horakuan – a magical place in the Nagano mountains that she largely renovated on her own.

We were the only participants, so we got to experience a very personal retreat with her: meditation, chanting, onsen, gardening and creative work, delicious food and a glimpse into her unique Japanese-German Buddhist life.

It felt super accessible, thanks to her open approach to Buddhist practice. Instead of rigid rules there was space for personal exchange and down-to-earth conversations – while carving wooden spoons 🪵.

As the cherry on top, we visited the temple her family runs – and it’s not just any temple!

Since her two sons, Kenshi (the priest) and Kai, took over, something truly special has taken shape. Over the years, they’ve transformed the 443-year-old temple @manryuji667 into a vibrant community hub that appeals to a younger crowd. Music-focused bar nights @saihate667 , a second-hand shop @kiosk667 , and weddings with electronic music now coexist with Buddhist memorials and other ceremonies – a fusion of traditional Zen practice with a contemporary approach. So inspiring! 🙏🏻

Kenshi spent some years in Berlin and became an admirer of the playful spirit of the city’s nightlife. He was inspired by the Berlin-based collective Bar 25/Kater Holzig. The inspiration turned into a vision: a way to merge spirituality, music, community, and the preservation of Zen Buddhist tradition in one place. A personal and unique way of giving the temple a colourful future for the next generations to come.