Quiet Reminders

We’ve looped Shikoku – 1,000 kilometers and 17,000 meters of elevation – and now we’re heading into new adventures, into Wakayama Prefecture, on Honshu, the largest of Japan’s four islands.

Looking back, Shikoku left a mark. A wild, mystical place. Especially in the deep mountain areas, the sense of abandonment is strong. Entire villages left behind. Forgotten roads, still in great shape. Blue rivers and rusty bridges everywhere.

Spring departs —
birds cry, and in the eyes of fish are tears.

Kobayashi Issa (1763–1828)

In the second half of Shikoku, we met up Fraziska @pedal.breathe.repeat and Rapha @rapha_rapha_rapha from Berlin, who had come over from the Kyushu side. A great match! Riding some stunning @japanese_odyssey segments. As team it was even more fun!

Together we imagined what life might have been like 30 years ago – lively towns in their best days? The remains we found are quiet reminders. It’s clear now – those times are gone.

Still, nature remains. And here and there, you find a little grocery store or a small restaurant, often with a sweet grandma inside. Most of the time, you’ll even be handed a small gift as you leave. The mountain people of Shikoku might not be wealthy, but they are incredibly rich in kindness.

Wild camping felt easy too. We found many special places – an abandoned holiday resort with working vending machines, or closed campgrounds where the toilet seats are still heated and the power plugs deliver what we need. Jackpot!

And after long climbs or freezing downhill rides, visiting an onsen felt like another blessing. The hot, mineral-rich water warmed us right to the bones.
Needless to say, crawling into your tent after an onsen visit is what makes bikepacking in Japan especially nice.