Temples and Tempura

Being finally back in Japan after our first big bikepacking adventure in 2016, we feel both happy and surprised. It feels as if this once-futuristic role model has grown older. High-tech with vintage charm. Toilets with heated seats and birdsong, yet the tiles are already starting to fall off the walls.

Since we left the urban surroundings of Tokyo right away and took the ferry to Shikoku, we’ve seen a surprising amount of decay in these first days — memories of once-flourishing times now hidden behind crumbling facades. But within Japanese aesthetics and its timeless architecture, even the sense of vanitas feels beautiful to us.

It’s spring, everything begins to bloom, and it’s cherry blossom high season! We’re slowly beginning to understand the cult-like fascination with “Sakura.” After just one day, we’ve caught cherry blossom fever ourselves, feeling like we have to take endless photos.

In general, during these first few days back in our bike packing paradise, we find ourselves unusually scattered, stopping at every temple (Shikoku is THE temple and pilgrim island) and practically every street corner, because everything feels so purely “Japan.”

While we pass trough remote regions, following abandoned mountain roads and well-scouted segments of the 2025 route of the @japanese_odyssey crew 🙌, we snack our way through the selection of konbinis (convenience stores).

Again and again we find ourselves standing like little kids, totally amazed in front of the countless vending machines, which are truly everywhere, offering hot or cold canned drinks at any time.

Everything is so different, so beautiful, so playful, so exciting. Japan, we fell in love again 🍙